extended weekend in kwazulu-natal

yesterday i got back from a looong weekend in durban and the drakensberg mountains with katrina and nicole. we had a really great time and it was good to get out and see some more of south africa.

in durban, we went to a market, had indian food, went to a beach, saw a great band play, and met some cool people both when we were out and at our hostel. durban is a cool city in some regards, but it was kind of overwhelming at times and difficult to figure out where the "good places" were to hang out. luckily we had some advice so we weren't totally lost, but the city just doesn't seem as tourist-friendly as cape town is. i guess we're spoiled here, but i'm really glad that i'm studying in cape town. i think it's good when traveling confirms for you that you are happy with where you live. 

our time in the drakensberg was the highlight of our trip. we rented a car, and after getting lost for ONE HOUR around durban, trying to find the highway in order to get OUT of the city (i was driving... a slightly stressful situation), we finally were on our way. the drive was beautiful and scenic, through mountains and valleys. our hostel was nice and it was therapeutic to get out of the city for a while.

on saturday we went through the sani pass into lesotho, the "mountain kingdom." the drive up was insanely rough and bumpy, but gorgeous. after the final treacherous ascent, we finally made it up into lesotho, where it was significantly colder than it was at our hostel and also raining. 

we only saw a tiny bit of lesotho, but i'm so glad we visited. the village at the top was simply a handful of circular huts, and there are sheep and shepherds strewn about. as a sort of coming-of-age ritual, teenage boys are sent out to be shepherds, by themselves, with their flock, for about six months. they then return to their homes for six months and the cycle continues. some of them choose to pursue different careers once they're adults, but some of them choose to become shepherds full-time. their lives are so incredibly different than ours, and different than anything you can find in the U.S. the country seems to be untouched; it is completely secluded up in the mountains.

before heading down again, we stopped at the highest pub in africa. outside it was dreary and cold, but inside i was surprised to find an entirely different atmosphere - it felt like a warm, cozy ski resort, full of people and guitar-playing and happiness. i could have stayed there all day, but (kind of) unfortunately we had to descend back into south africa.

in all, it was a fun trip. it felt good to get back to cape town, though. i always feel that way, which is a good thing.

the bestest of the besties

long time no write. mom and marie left last night, and are actually still traveling right now. it's so weird to think that since they left i've gone to sleep, woken up and had a whole day of classes and homework, yet they're still en route to wisconsin. 

we had a really great time. we did so many different things: a trip to botswana & zambia, a weekend in stellenbosch, kirstenbosch botanical gardens, kalk bay, camps bay, clifton beach, a drive to cape point, hout bay & the world of birds (africa's largest bird park and yes it is as creepy as it sounds)... and they did robben island and the city bus tour on their own. and probably more things that i can't remember. anyway, my point is that we did a lot, and although it was exhausting at times it was good because it forced me to get out and do things that i had wanted to do anyway. and of course it was great to have them here and spend waaay too much time together. i think marie's going to need some serious friend time when she gets home.

it's cold here today! upper 60s today, probably in the 50s right now. at home, we would be busting out the shorts and sandals for this weather, but here, people wear winter jackets and we complain about how freezing we are. i guess fall has begun, and i'm just hoping the rain holds off for a while. we are all totally not prepared for this weather, so i think a fall-clothing shopping spree is in order soon.

on wednesday i'm heading to durban with katrina and nicole. we're staying two nights on the beach in durban, and then going into the drakensburg mountains which are a couple of hours away. we're going to hike and hopefully get into lesotho as well. i'm really excited and happy that we're going, because i'm not sure if i'd make it through an entire week of classes this week. wow am i a complainer.

i apologize for the fact that this entry is really mundane, but i'm not sure what else to say, which is ironic since the past three weeks have been packed full of activities... but i don't really feel like recapping our trips and whatnot. even though i sound bored, i'm completely not, and i'm very very happy. i had some much-needed mom and sister time, and now i get to get back to some much-needed friend time. life is good.

ubuntu: i am because we are

a group of us have started volunteering at an organization called ubuntu africa. it was started by an american girl who studied abroad here only a few years ago; while she was here, she volunteered at an orphanage and fell in love with it so much that she came back to start this new organization on her own, which is incredibly brave and admirable. ubuntu africa is located in khayletisha, a township about a half an hour outside of cape town; khayletisha is the largest township in cape town, with between 500,000 to one million people and is by far one of the most poverty-stricken and dangerous areas in the area. driving in, all you see are miles and miles of shacks.

ubuntu africa is a center for HIV positive kids; there are currently 42 kids who are a part of the program, but over 200 are on the waiting list. there are 240,000 children infected with AIDS in south africa alone, and over 80% of them do not have access to the anti-retroviral medication that they need. the majority of the children at ubuntu have lost one or both parents to AIDS; some of their parents have been murdered, and a shocking proportion of the children have been infected with HIV through rape, sometimes by their own father.

ubuntu africa provides health care and counseling to HIV positive children and their families, but it focuses specifically on improving the well-being of the children in all aspects, not just medically. ubuntu is a place for the kids to come and play, be with their friends, and get the attention that they are so desperately lacking at home. they are picked up from school and brought to the center, which is simply a church that is rented out by the center. the children are fed dinner each day by ubuntu; this may be the one real meal they receive all day.

we've started visiting once a week, and have brought the kids toys and coloring books; last week we brought music, and you'd be impressed with how well these tiny kids can dance and how many of them know every word to beyonce songs, even if they speak limited english. we've also discovered a small abandoned house next door to the center that we're planning on painting, furnishing, and converting into a hang-out place for the older kids; this will give them a fun place hang out together, away from the little kids. we're also going to clean up the yard so the kids can play outside safely.

every time i visit, i am struck by the excitement and positive energy that radiates out of these children. they are always excited to see us, and are full of love and hugs and laughs. sometimes i step back and think about what is actually going on both inside their bodies and inside their homes, and it literally knocks the wind out of me. despite the illness that is ravaging their bodies and their families, they just want to be loved and have fun.

i encourage you to visit ubuntu africa's website. i know that times are tight, but if you find it in your heart to make a donation of any size, the money would go an incredibly long way here. the organization is young and needs funds in order to grow; my friends and i, specifically, need money to fix up the house for the teenagers. even if a donation isn't feasible, i urge you to read about the organization and about the AIDS epidemic. education is important. people need to know what is going on here, especially because of the lack of initiative both by the government here and by others around the world.